Riding a wave has got to be one of the most amazing and magical things that a person can do. I had an opportunity to surf again last week and was once again left feeling humbled. It has been seven years since my last trip to San Diego and my first opportunity to try it. I knew from that experience that it was a pretty difficult thing to do. I went into this trip hoping for the best but not expecting a lot.
My first opportunity was at South Mission beach in San Diego. It was rough surf and for me very difficult. My surf coach took me through some basic drills on paddling, popping up and how to deal with waves breaking over your head (turtle rolls). I was feeling very determined and definitely gave it my full efforts. I completely exhausted myself but I was able to catch several waves and stood up for like 1.5 seconds. It was a small but tasty feel of the stoke.
The next day we went to San Onofre or as the locals call it San O. It is state park about an hour north of San Diego and one of the coolest places I have ever been. It is very popular but big enough that it doesn't feel crowded. The surf here was small, slow and mushy. Paddling out beyond the break was much easier than on any of my prior attempts and gave me some confidence that this might be my day. However it was difficult for me to catch waves they were so small. Also my shoulder muscles were exhausted from the prior days adventures and the fact that at San O the breaks were a long way out from the beach.
I had a great time getting out and giving it a go. It was great fun to get to meet and hang out with some really cool people. It feels like it is almost within my reach to be able to stand up and ride a wave, but with such a limited time to try I wasn't quite able to do it. I really want to learn how but living in Seattle it is a pretty long drive. I hope I get an opportunity to try again before seven years goes by again. A big shout out to my surf coaches and enablers Jen, Greg and Glen, you guys rock! Also my very patient wife who kept Amelia from eating shells and seaweed while I was busy eating seawater.
My first opportunity was at South Mission beach in San Diego. It was rough surf and for me very difficult. My surf coach took me through some basic drills on paddling, popping up and how to deal with waves breaking over your head (turtle rolls). I was feeling very determined and definitely gave it my full efforts. I completely exhausted myself but I was able to catch several waves and stood up for like 1.5 seconds. It was a small but tasty feel of the stoke.
The next day we went to San Onofre or as the locals call it San O. It is state park about an hour north of San Diego and one of the coolest places I have ever been. It is very popular but big enough that it doesn't feel crowded. The surf here was small, slow and mushy. Paddling out beyond the break was much easier than on any of my prior attempts and gave me some confidence that this might be my day. However it was difficult for me to catch waves they were so small. Also my shoulder muscles were exhausted from the prior days adventures and the fact that at San O the breaks were a long way out from the beach.
I had a great time getting out and giving it a go. It was great fun to get to meet and hang out with some really cool people. It feels like it is almost within my reach to be able to stand up and ride a wave, but with such a limited time to try I wasn't quite able to do it. I really want to learn how but living in Seattle it is a pretty long drive. I hope I get an opportunity to try again before seven years goes by again. A big shout out to my surf coaches and enablers Jen, Greg and Glen, you guys rock! Also my very patient wife who kept Amelia from eating shells and seaweed while I was busy eating seawater.
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